Who to Call for an Extractor Fan? Electrician vs HVAC vs Installer (2025 Guide)

Pick the wrong trade for an extractor fan and you end up paying twice-once for the visit, and again for the right person to fix it. Here’s the straight answer: the right pro depends on the fan type (bathroom, kitchen hood, inline/attic), the symptom (no power vs weak airflow), and whether ductwork or electrical needs to change. I live in Toronto, and this holds true across Canada and most of the U.S., with a few code wrinkles you’ll want to know about.

• TL;DR-Quick answer: No power or switch issues? Call an electrician. Weak suction, condensation, long ducts, new outside vent? Call HVAC/ventilation. Kitchen range hood install or swap? Call a range hood/appliance installer (plus electrician if wiring changes). Roof/wall cap or flashing problems? Call a roofer/siding contractor. Tenants/condos? Start with landlord/condo management.
• Bathroom fans: Electrician for swaps and wiring; HVAC if the duct is too long, undersized, or vents into an attic (it shouldn’t).
• Kitchen hoods: Installer for the hood itself; HVAC for duct routing/sizing and any makeup air. Electrician if adding a new circuit or relocating power.
• Costs (Toronto ballpark, 2025): Service call $125-$200; bathroom fan swap $250-$600 labour; kitchen hood install $250-$700 labour; new duct or roof cap $250-$800; makeup air systems start around $900.
• Codes: Fans must exhaust outdoors. High‑CFM range hoods may trigger makeup air. Electrical work needs to meet the Ontario Electrical Safety Code; your electrician usually files the ESA notification.

Who to call (by fan type, symptoms, and project scope)

Different extractor fans live in different ecosystems. The right pro changes with the job. Here’s a clean way to choose without wasting a day calling around.

If it’s a bathroom extractor fan

• No power, dead switch, tripping breaker: Electrician. They’ll test the circuit, replace the switch, and swap the motor or whole fan if needed.
• Fan runs but barely moves air, mirror stays foggy: HVAC/ventilation contractor. Poor airflow usually means undersized or crushed duct, too many bends, clogged backdraft damper, or a weak fan for the room size.
• New bathroom or moving the fan: Electrician + HVAC. Electrician handles power and controls (timer/humidity sensor). HVAC sizes and runs the duct to a roof/wall cap and seals it right.
• Condensation stains, attic mold alerts: HVAC + Roofer. You likely have duct leakage or it’s venting into the attic. HVAC will fix duct sizing and insulation; a roofer checks flashing and caps.

If it’s a kitchen extractor (range hood)

• Replacing a like-for-like hood with the same duct location: Range hood/appliance installer. If the plug, junction box, and duct line up, it’s a quick job.
• Adding a new hood or moving the duct path: HVAC/ventilation contractor + installer. HVAC plans the duct size/route and any makeup air; installer mounts the hood.
• Ductless/recirculating hood upgrade to ducted: HVAC. They’ll run a proper duct to outside and add a wall/roof cap. Electrician only if you need a new circuit or relocate hardwiring.
• Loud rattling or grease-dripping mess: Range hood/appliance technician. They’ll service the blower, baffles, and lights. If the motor is burnt, they’ll quote replacement.

If it’s an inline/attic/garage extractor

• Noise from attic fan or poor whole-home ventilation: HVAC/ventilation contractor. They’ll check sizing, balancing, duct runs, and damper operation.
• Roof cap whistling or leaks: Roofer. They’ll reseal flashing and replace caps if needed.

Special cases

• Condo/apartment: Start with building management. Many buildings use shared shafts and have rules on fan models, hours, and airflow limits. They may specify the trades allowed.
• Tenant in a rental: Contact your landlord first. They’re responsible for ventilation and safety in most provinces and states.
• New build still under warranty (Ontario): Check Tarion new home warranty coverage and contact your builder before hiring anyone.
• Under manufacturer warranty: Call the manufacturer support line or an authorized service center so you don’t void coverage.

Who not to call

• Plumber: Ventilation and wiring aren’t their lane.
• Handyman: Fine for swapping a grill or basic fan replacement if no electrical changes, but not for new wiring, duct reroutes, or roof penetrations.

DIY or pro?

• Reasonable DIY: Clean the grill, replace filters, swap a like-for-like bathroom fan if the housing matches and wiring location stays the same. Shut off the breaker, test for power, and follow the manual.
• Hire a pro: Any new circuit, moving boxes, cutting new duct holes, roof/wall penetrations, long or insulated duct runs, or range hoods over gas ranges.

Quick symptom-to-trade cheat

• Dead fan or lights but switch clicks: Electrician.
• Weak pull at the grill, steam lingers: HVAC.
• Grease and noise from a hood, lights flicker: Range hood installer/tech.
• Water stains around ceiling fan: HVAC first, roofer second.
• Cold draft through fan in winter: HVAC (check backdraft damper and insulation).

Costs, codes, and what each pro actually does

Here’s what you’re likely to pay in 2025, what’s included, and which code rules pop up most. Prices are Toronto/CAD ballparks from recent jobs; the ranges travel well to other big cities with modest swings.

Permits and inspections you should expect

• Electrical (Ontario): New circuits or changes that go beyond a straight swap typically require an ESA notification. Your electrician files it and includes the fee in the quote. This follows the Ontario Electrical Safety Code, enforced by the Electrical Safety Authority (ESA).
• Building/venting: Bathroom and kitchen fans must exhaust outdoors-never into an attic or soffit cavity. That’s in building codes across Canada and the U.S. A roofer or HVAC contractor will handle proper termination and flashing.
• Makeup air (kitchen): Powerful hoods can depressurize a home. Many jurisdictions trigger makeup air around 400-600 CFM. In Ontario, contractors typically reference the Ontario Building Code and ASHRAE ventilation guidance when sizing and balancing. Ask your pro where the local threshold sits.
• Condos and multi‑unit: Management must approve penetrations and fan types tied into shared shafts. They’ll point you to approved contractors.

How pros size and spec your fan (so you know they’re doing it right)

• Bathroom fans: HVI’s simple rule for bathrooms up to 100 sq ft is 1 CFM per square foot at 8 ft ceiling height. Over 100 sq ft, add 50 CFM for a toilet, 50 for a shower, and 100 for a jetted tub. If you’ve got high ceilings, multiply by (ceiling height ÷ 8). Long ducts, extra elbows, or check valves may call for a higher model to deliver the airflow you actually need at static pressure.
• Kitchen hoods: Two common rules: 100 CFM per linear foot of cooktop for wall hoods (150 CFM/ft for island), or 1 CFM per 100 BTU of total burner output-pick the larger. For induction, use width-based rules. Pro-style ranges usually land in the 600-1200 CFM range and can require makeup air.
• Noise: Sones are the rating. Under 1.0 sone is whisper-quiet; 1.5-2.0 is acceptable in most bathrooms; big hoods will be louder, especially on high.
• Ducting: Rigid metal duct beats flex. Keep runs short and straight. Upsize to 6" for 150+ CFM when possible. Seal joints with foil tape and mastic; insulate ducts in unconditioned spaces to prevent condensation.

What each trade actually brings to the job

• Electrician: Safe wiring, proper switch gear (timers, humidity controls), and code compliance. Expect them to test with a meter, not guess.
• HVAC/ventilation: Airflow math, duct layout, and building envelope thinking-how air moves through your home, and how to keep it dry and safe.
• Installer/tech: The mechanics. Clean mounting, alignment, fan speed setup, and parts replacement.
• Roofer: Weatherproof penetrations. No leaks, no drafts.

Red flags to avoid

• Anyone proposing to dump bathroom or hood exhaust into the attic or soffit cavity.
• Flex duct snaked all over the attic on a high‑CFM hood.
• “We don’t need to file ESA; it’s just a fan.”
• For gas appliances: No talk of makeup air or combustion safety checks.

How to get it done right: step-by-step, checklists, examples, FAQ

Here’s the playbook I use for clients and my own place. It saves callbacks and awkward patch jobs.

Step 1: Identify the fan type and the symptom

1. Bathroom, kitchen hood, or inline/attic? Snap a photo of the unit and the label if visible.
2. List the problem: no power, low airflow, noise, smells, grease, condensation, leaks, or you’re planning a new install.
3. Peek at the duct if you can: diameter, material (flex vs rigid), number of bends, and where it terminates (roof/wall/soffit).

Step 2: Choose the right pro

1. Use the symptom guide above. If you’re split, start with the electrician for power issues, HVAC for airflow issues, and a hood installer for kitchen hardware issues.
2. For projects that cross lines (new duct and new wiring), ask one trade to be the prime and bring in the other. Many HVAC shops have an electrician they work with, and vice versa.

Step 3: Get quotes the smart way

1. Send the photos and the symptom list. Add rough room size for bathrooms, cooktop width and fuel type for kitchens.
2. Ask for: itemized scope, who handles permits/ESA, brand/model suggestions, how they’ll size CFM and ducts, and what gets sealed/insulated.
3. Request a simple airflow verification: a tissue test at the grill, or better, a flow hood reading if they have one.

Step 4: Prep the space

1. Clear the work area (tub or cooktop). Cover counters. Move anything under the attic access if they’ll go up.
2. Confirm access: attic hatch, breaker panel, rooftop safety if needed.
3. Pick controls: on/off, timer (15-60 min), or humidity sensor. Timers help dry the space after showers.

Step 5: After the install

1. Test on high. Bathroom: mirror should start clearing within a couple minutes. Kitchen: you should see steam/odor capture at a simmer and a strong pull on high.
2. Check outside: damper opens, no whistles, no visible leaks. Feel for air at the cap.
3. Get paperwork: model/serial, ESA certificate if filed, and warranty terms.

Sizing cheat-sheets you can use on the call

• Bathroom (HVI rule): Floor area (sq ft) ≈ CFM for 8 ft ceilings. Over 100 sq ft, use 50 CFM per toilet or shower, 100 CFM for a jetted tub. For 9-10 ft ceilings, multiply by 1.1-1.25. Example: 8' x 10' bath = 80 CFM minimum; with a long duct, pick 110-150 CFM.
• Kitchen: 30" cooktop on a wall? Aim 300 CFM minimum. Gas range total 60,000 BTU? Target ~600 CFM. Island hoods need more capture (broader canopy and higher CFM).
• Ducts: 4" duct is okay for small baths up to ~80 CFM; 6" duct is happier at 150+ CFM. Each 90° elbow is like 5-10 ft of extra duct length-keep it tight.

What counts as proof your pro knows their stuff

• They reference HVI ratings, not just box CFM.
• They bring up makeup air if your hood is 400+ CFM.
• They mention the Electrical Safety Authority for Ontario jobs and are comfortable filing the notice.
• They propose rigid duct and sealing with foil tape and mastic.

Examples from real-life calls

• Foggy bathroom, brand-new fan: Turned out the installer left the knockout in the fan’s backdraft damper. HVAC popped it, secured a 6" rigid duct with mastic, and it went from useless to excellent in 30 minutes.
• Grease smell in a condo kitchen: The hood was ductless with a clogged charcoal filter. Management required a specific recirculating model. The appliance tech swapped filters and tuned the fan speed-smells gone, no shaft work allowed.
• Roaring 900 CFM hood in a tight home: Range hood installer called in HVAC for makeup air. A motorized damper tied to the hood’s control solved the draft and gas backdraft risk.

Buyer’s checklist (copy/paste into your notes)

• Trade chosen fits the job: Electrician / HVAC / Hood installer / Roofer
• Scope covers ducting to the exterior, sealed and insulated if needed
• CFM sized using HVI/ASHRAE rules, not a guess
• Makeup air discussed for hoods 400+ CFM
• ESA notification (if required) included in quote
• Warranty: parts and labour, with model and serial recorded
• Cleanup and patching plan noted if openings are enlarged

Mini‑FAQ

• Can an electrician install the duct too? Some will, but HVAC does it better and will size and seal it right. If the electrician says “I’ll just run flex,” ask for rigid duct and proper sealing-or bring in HVAC.
• Do bathroom fans need GFCI? The fan itself doesn’t typically require GFCI, but outlets in bathrooms do. Your electrician will follow the local electrical code.
• Is venting through a soffit allowed? Many codes and manufacturers advise against it because exhaust can be drawn back into the attic. Wall or roof termination is the standard.
• My hood is 600 CFM-do I need makeup air? Likely, yes. Many areas trigger MUA around 400-600 CFM. Ask your HVAC contractor to confirm local thresholds and propose a solution.
• What maintenance keeps fans quiet? Clean grilles and baffles every few months, replace charcoal filters on ductless hoods, and vacuum dust from bathroom fan housings once or twice a year.

Troubleshooting next steps (pick your scenario)

• Bathroom fan is dead: Check the breaker and try the switch on/off. If still dead, call an electrician and mention whether any GFCI tripped.
• Bathroom fan is loud but weak: Pop the grill and clean dust. If no better, HVAC should check the duct and damper.
• Kitchen hood rattles: Remove filters and check for a loose baffle or a bent blower wheel. If the motor whines, call a hood tech/installer.
• Cold air leaking through the fan in winter: HVAC to inspect the backdraft damper and insulation. A broken damper lets outside air pour in.
• Water stain near the fan: HVAC first to rule out duct condensation; roofer second for cap/flashing issues.

If you only remember one thing: match the symptom to the trade. Electrician for power, HVAC for air, installer for the appliance, roofer for the hole in the building. That single choice fixes 90% of the runaround people face with extractor fan repair.

Notes on credibility: The sizing rules referenced here come from the Home Ventilating Institute (HVI) and common industry practice; makeup air thresholds and ventilation rates align with ASHRAE residential guidance often adopted in codes. In Ontario, electrical work is governed by the Ontario Electrical Safety Code under the Electrical Safety Authority (ESA), and ventilation/termination rules track the Ontario Building Code. Ask your contractor to cite the specific clause that applies to your home and hood size.